Finally: a leather jacket for men that does not convey a “midlife crisis”

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Jacket, $ 10,700, Hermès, 212-308-3585


Photo:

F. Martin Ramin / The Wall Street Journal, layout by Anne Cardenas

Points of distinction

WHAT A SENSATION Hermès used Étrivière lambskin, a grained leather with a suede feel, supple enough to do without a lining.

RIGID The jacket is supple, but the collar has been reinforced with triangular stitching so you can pull it up in case of biting wind.

WHAT IS YOUR ANGLE? Three slanted pockets are enhanced with aqua green zippers or, in Hermès parlance, “sporty details”.

LEATHER JACKETS Remember dirty motorcycles – blame Marlon Brando and the Hells Angels for that – but Hermès, the 182-year-old French brand, designed a leather jacket that evokes a stranger form of transport: the horse. “This jacket is made from Étrivière lambskin, a Hermès heritage leather, originally used for harness straps for horses,” explains Véronique Nichanian, men’s artistic director of the label. Equestrian leather is not a surprising choice for a brand that started in 1837 as a saddlery and whose logo still depicts a horse-drawn carriage. However, not much more about this coat is to be expected.

Unlike motorcycle jackets with turn-down collars and rigid shells, Hermès’ lambskin proposition is airy. It won’t protect you from rashes if you fall from your helicopter, but it will rest on your shoulders as gently as a cotton baseball jacket.

It’s rendered in inky green, not the gothic black or the usual maroon of baseball mittens, with luminous seafoam stripes on the zippered pockets. The result: modern and not in the least midlife crisis, especially when worn with shiny cotton pants as it was on the brand’s spring runway show.

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